Ah the joys of the domestic terminal at Bombay. I'm here, in one piece, I still can't hear anything, but the flights were fine--great even, given that they were two long flights with 8 hours in London in-between. I can highly recommend the quiet waiting area at Heathrow Terminal 4, where you can sleep almost horizontally in quiet and low light--I got a good three hours of sleep there before getting on the flight to Bombay. I am now in the "iway broadband internet cafe" inside the domestic terminal, where there isn't really a cafe at all, just some computers, but I will say that the broadband is definitely in evidence and a huge improvement over earlier internet kiosk experiences I've had in India. It is Bombay, after all.
The Aurangabad flight is (natch) delayed, but there is (natch) a fabulous bookstore (in a space smaller than most bathrooms) which has every postcolonial/contemporary INdian novel you've ever seen, including the new Rushdie which may have to be one of the things I lug around this trip.
Tomorrow is the 5th century excavated Buddhist and Jain caves at Ajanta all day, so wish me luck!